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Title : Tiara Thursday: The Medinaceli Art Deco Tiara
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Tiara Thursday: The Medinaceli Art Deco Tiara

The Medinaceli Art Deco Tiara
Sotheby's

This tiara puts an Art Deco twist on motifs frequently represented in tiaras: palmettes, acanthus leaves, and floral clusters. The nine openwork plaques of graduated size are pierced and millegrain-set with single-cut, circular-cut, and rose diamonds.

The tiara, removed from the frame
Sotheby's

The tiara can be removed completely from its frame and laid flat. It’s likely that this jewel was designed also to be a choker-style necklace, though the tiara frame is the only fitting it has today. Regularly attributed to Chaumet, the tiara dates from the 1920s and has French assay marks.

As worn by a Duchess of Medinaceli

The Spanish ducal house of Medinaceli – a title dating back to 1479 that has been held by dukes as well as duchesses in their own right – owned this unusual tiara. It was worn by Ana Fernandez de Henestrosa Gayoso de los Cobos, wife of the 17th Duke, for a painting in 1926 (above), probably not long after the tiara’s creation. It was also used as a bridal tiara in later generations.

As a bridal tiara
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The tiara was sold at Sotheby’s in July 2011 for $442,020. It was marked as the property of a ducal house. In the auction notes from the sale, the tiara was likened to the Lotus Flower Tiara and the Gloucester Honeysuckle Tiara, both using similar motifs and both belonging to members of the British royal family. In terms of the overall impression of the piece, I see a likeness to another tiara, one also hailing from a Spanish noble house: the Alba Russian Tiara, which puts a geometric spin on a similar sort of layered design effect.

The centerpiece
Sotheby's

The Medinaceli Art Deco Tiara is a large and imposing jewel in use. It was probably best suited to use as a wedding tiara, with a veil as a background to balance things out. As used by one of the brides pictured above, it even takes on a bit of the feel of a peineta and mantilla. And yet, again like the Alba Russian Tiara, it’s not hard to see how it came to sale.

How do you rate this unusual piece?

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